How do you spot a good dog trainer?

They explain the why behind every piece of advice without jargon, work with rewards, come to your home and stay at ease with your dog, with no breed prejudice. The feeling matters too: this is the person you'll be making progress with, and your gut is a good guide. On the flip side, 'dominance', 'submit him' or a coercive collar pulled out straight away are reasons to walk away.

Is it a problem if a trainer uses an electronic collar?

It's a clear red flag. These collars (electronic, choke, prong) work through pain or fear: they silence the dog without teaching him anything and raise stress and the risk of aggression, without being any more effective than rewards. In France, a decree of 19 June 2025 actually bans professionals (trainers, breeders, shelters) from using these collars: a trainer simply isn't allowed to bring one out any more. Look instead for a professional who works with reinforcement and managing the environment.

Choosing a dog trainer

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Choosing a dog trainer

Q: How much does a dog behaviourist cost?

Prices vary a lot depending on the region, the format (at home, remote, in a group) and how difficult the case is: be wary of a firm price quoted before they've even seen your dog. The real criterion isn't the fee but the method: a professional who works with rewards, explains the why and comes to watch your dog at home is worth far more than a cheaper session with a collar that hurts.

Q: What does a dog behaviourist do?

They deal with established problems, mostly emotional ones: aggression, biting, separation anxiety, phobia, guarding the food bowl or toys. Rather than teaching commands, they look for the cause (fear, an unmet need, a bad experience) and work on it gently, below the dog's reaction threshold. If the problem appeared suddenly, they'll point you to the vet first to rule out pain.

Q: How do you train a fearful dog?

You never force him: dragging a dog towards what frightens him breaks his confidence and makes the fear worse. The right path is desensitisation: you present the trigger from a distance, far enough that the dog stays calm and will take a treat, then you close the gap in tiny steps, backing off the moment he switches off. Mark the right moment with a marker word ('yes!') followed by a reward. If the fear came on all at once, go through the vet first: a hidden pain sometimes lies behind it.

Q: What's the difference between a dog trainer and a dog behaviourist?

The trainer helps you with everyday life: lead walking, recall, house-training, puppy socialisation, living in society. The behaviourist goes further, into established, emotional problems (aggression, anxiety, phobias), where the aim is to change an emotion, not to teach a command. Plenty of professionals do both: what matters is that they know when a case is beyond them and can point you elsewhere.

10 min read

A good trainer explains the why behind every piece of advice, comes to see your dog at home, and works with rewards, never with a collar that hurts. Your gut feeling counts too: if you click with them, go ahead; if not, look elsewhere. And if they talk about “dominating” or “submitting” your dog, walk away.

Behaviour is a symptom, not the problem

Your dog's behaviour is a symptom, never the real problem. Pulling on the lead, barking, freezing on the spot: behind it there is almost always an unmet need, some fear, or a well-meaning human mistake. A good trainer looks for that cause instead of silencing the symptom, and that is where the method shows its true colours. A tool that works through pain, like an electric, choke or prong collar, suppresses the behaviour without teaching the dog anything: what looks like progress is often just fear keeping him quiet. That fear damages his relationship with you, and it can even trigger aggression. Studies comparing the two methods in the field confirm it, right down to the recall: rewards get results that are at least as good, without the stress.

Where to find a trainer near you

The simplest route is to ask your vet: they often know the good professionals locally, and the ones to avoid. Word of mouth works well too, especially from an owner whose dog you have seen make progress. And before booking a paid session, get in touch by phone or message: most will accept a first chat free of charge, and that is the moment to have them explain their method.

Good signs and warning signs

Spot quickly what is reassuring, and what should make you run.

Good signs

They explain the whyYou can judge for yourself whether their method suits your dog and your life, rather than just taking their word for it.

They work with rewardsFor obedience as much as for behaviour problems, rewards are at least as effective as force, with far less stress for your dog.

They come to your home, into your daily lifeA dog behaves differently depending on the place: watching him at home avoids getting the cause wrong.

They stay comfortable around your dogCalm and steady, they put your dog at ease and read his signals well.

They also work in real situations, not just in a closed roomA club field is useful for certain exercises, but your dog also needs to work where the problem actually happens: the street, the park, your home. What should worry you is a professional who never leaves their training room.

You can stay and watch every sessionYou see exactly what they do with your dog, and you learn to repeat the same things between sessions.

Warning signs

Choke, prong or electric collarThese collars work through pain, push stress up, and teach your dog nothing: on their own, they are reason enough to change professional.

The vocabulary of “dominance”, “alpha”, “make him submit”These words mostly serve to justify force or a lack of results; your relationship with your dog is not a rank to defend.

Refusing to travel, or online sessions onlyThey will never see your dog in his real life: convenient for them, unreliable for you.

They send you away while they work with your dogYou no longer see what they are actually doing, with what, or how your dog is reacting.

Vague answers, a method never justifiedThat doubt follows you into every exercise, and an exercise done without conviction is useless.

Fear of your dog, or breed prejudiceIf they are tense around your dog or judge his breed in advance, they cannot guide you calmly.

What to check before you commit

With these four checks, you know almost everything about a trainer.

Get them to explain their method from the first conversation

Just ask: “why this method, for my dog?” A good professional answers in plain words, without jargon, and without falling back on “because I say so”. It is up to you to judge whether their answer fits your dog and your life.

Check that they come to your home, into your daily life

A dog behaves differently depending on where he is. An online or indoor session does not show your dog in his real life, and that skews the analysis.

Watch how they approach your dog

See whether they stay calm and at ease, without backing away at a bark or judging your dog on his breed. That very first interaction already tells you a lot.

Listen to your gut after the first session

If you do not click with them, or if your dog develops new awkward behaviours as the sessions go on, change professional: that is clear-sightedness, not failure.

Respect and method show from the very first session: if your dog is handled roughly, is tense, or if you simply do not click, do not wait to change professional.

If a trainer suggests a muzzle in order to work safely with a reactive dog, that is not a bad sign. It is a temporary tool, there to protect you and other people while they work on the real cause. They pair it with good things, never with punishment, and take it off as soon as it is no longer needed.

Trainer, behaviourist or vet?

The dog trainer

They help with everyday life: lead walking, recall, house training, living in society.
They socialise your puppy, channel his energy, and set clear reference points.
The right choice for building good foundations, or for undoing an awkward habit.

The behaviourist

They deal with established problems: aggression, biting, separation anxiety, phobias, guarding the bowl or toys.
They work in depth on the emotion and its cause, rather than adding one more obedience session.
Go to them as soon as a behaviour puts someone in danger, or goes beyond ordinary training.

The vet (or veterinary behaviourist)

See them for any behaviour that appears suddenly or gets worse fast.
See them too at the slightest doubt about pain or a physical cause.
The vet rules out a physical cause first, before concluding it is a training problem.

AVSAB — Position Statement on Humane Dog Training (2021)
China, Mills & Cooper — Efficacy of dog training with and without remote electronic collars vs. reward-based training (2020)
Cooper et al. — The welfare consequences and efficacy of training pet dogs with remote electronic collars (2014)
Herron, Shofer & Reisner — Survey of the use and outcome of confrontational and non-confrontational training methods (2009)
Ziv — The effects of using aversive training methods in dogs: A review (2017)
Vieira de Castro et al. — Does training method matter? Evidence for the negative impact of aversive-based methods (2020)

Going further

guidePunishing your dogMethods that hurt or frighten leave their mark: here is what a good trainer avoids at all costs.Read the guide guideHe growls, stiffens, reacts (reactivity)If your dog reacts strongly on the lead or towards other dogs, this guide helps you understand before you look for professional help.Read the guide guidePuppy socialisation (3-16 weeks)The window you do not want to miss for a calm dog later on, and how a good trainer can help you with it.Read the guide guideRebuilding trust with a fearful or mistreated dogA fearful rescue dog, or one marked by a difficult past, often needs a trainer schooled in gentleness: this guide shows you how to help him.Read the guide guideWalking on a lead without pullingOne of the first things to teach a rescue dog: the basics for calm walks, with no pulling on the lead.Read the guide guideUnderstand before you judgeEvery good trainer takes the same stance: look for the cause of a behaviour before trying to correct it.Read the guide

Frequently asked questions

How much does a dog behaviourist cost?

It varies a lot by region and format (at home, online, in a group): expect somewhere between 40 and 90 euros for an individual session, sometimes more for a full behaviour assessment. Be wary of extremes: an unusually low price often hides someone with little training, and a big package paid upfront with a “guaranteed result” is a reason to run. The real criterion remains the method: a professional who works with rewards, explains the why, and comes to see your dog at home is worth far more than a bargain session with a collar that hurts.

What does a dog behaviourist do?

They deal with established problems, often emotional ones: aggression, biting, separation anxiety, phobias, guarding the bowl or toys. Rather than teaching your dog cues, they look for the cause (a fear, an unmet need, a bad experience) and work on it gently, at a distance where your dog stays calm. If the problem appeared out of the blue, they will send you to the vet first to rule out pain.

How do you train a fearful dog?

Never force him: dragging a dog towards what frightens him breaks his trust and makes the fear worse. The right method is desensitisation: you present the scary thing from far away, at a distance where he stays calm and will take a treat, then you shorten that distance in very small steps (moving just a few paces closer each time, over several sessions), backing off as soon as he switches off. Mark the right moment with a marker word (“yes!”) followed by a reward. If the fear appeared out of the blue, see the vet first: invisible pain sometimes hides behind it.

What is the difference between a dog trainer and a dog behaviourist?

The trainer helps with everyday life: lead walking, recall, house training, puppy socialisation, living in society. The behaviourist goes further, into established, emotional problems (aggression, anxiety, phobias), where the aim is to change an emotion rather than teach a cue. Plenty of professionals do both: what matters is that they know when a case is beyond them, and point you elsewhere.

How do you recognise a good dog trainer?

They explain the why behind every piece of advice, without jargon, they work with rewards, they come to your home and they stay at ease with your dog, with no breed prejudice. Listen to how you feel, too: this is the person you will be making progress with, week after week. On the other hand, “dominance”, “make him submit”, or a coercive collar brought out in the first session are all reasons to move on.

A trainer who uses an electric collar, is that serious?

It is a clear warning sign. These collars (electric, choke, prong) work through pain or fear: they silence the dog without teaching him anything, and they raise stress and the risk of aggression, without being any more effective than rewards. In France, a decree of 19 June 2025 in fact bans professionals (trainers, handlers, breeders, shelters) from using these coercive collars in their work: since July 2025, a trainer simply no longer has the right to bring one out. Look instead for a professional who works with rewards, and who prefers changing the situation causing the problem rather than forcing your dog.

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