Feeding your adult dog
Feeding your adult dog well comes down to three habits: a quality ration served in two meals, weighed rather than judged by eye, and adjusted to his shape rather than the chart on the packet. Treats count towards the day's total. The right yardstick is his ribs, his waist and his belly.
The why, before the how much
Your dog doesn't choose what's in his bowl: he takes whatever we give him. That's why the number-one cause of canine excess weight isn't a temperamental gland, but overfeeding « out of love » and treats that go uncounted (AAHA 2021 consensus). And the stakes go beyond his figure: across 48 Labradors followed for their whole lives, those kept lean lived nearly two years longer than their slightly rounder littermates, with arthritis setting in later (Kealy et al. 2002). Keeping your dog at his ideal weight isn't depriving him, it's giving him more years in better shape.
How much to give: read the ration, don't guess it
There's no universal « number of kibbles »: it all depends on your dog and on the calorie density of HIS kibble, which can vary twofold from one brand to another. The chart on the packet is a starting point, and often a generous one.
Start from the chart, then correct
It tends to overestimate. A neutered dog burns roughly 20 to 30 % less: on the same ration, he'll gain weight if you don't adjust (AAHA 2021 consensus).
Weigh the ration to the gram
His needs depend on weight, age, activity and neutered status (the vet's reference: the maintenance energy requirement, calculated from the resting requirement; WSAVA Global Nutrition Guidelines, NRC 2006). Your job is to read, weigh and adjust.
Judge by the body, not the bag
The real judge is his shape: ribs under a thin layer, a waist that's clear from above. Adjust the ration every couple of weeks according to how things change.
Deduct treats from the day
They count towards the total and come off the meal, so treats stay under roughly 10 % of the day's calories.
Two meals a day rather than one large one, and the bowl on the floor: in large, deep-chested breeds, splitting meals and slowing down eating are recognised ways to help guard against gastric torsion (Glickman et al. 2000). Feeding from a raised bowl is no longer recommended for most dogs.
Learning to read your dog: the three body checks
The scale alone isn't enough: a number means nothing without the build behind it. The eye that sees a dog every day adjusts imperceptibly and ends up calling « normal » what no longer is. The reference method, the WSAVA body condition score, combines three checks you can do at home.
At his ideal weight
- You feel the ribs easily under a thin layer of fat, without pressing, like the back of your hand.
- From above, the waist is clear: the body narrows behind the ribs (an hourglass shape).
- In profile, the belly tucks up towards the rear.
Overweight
- You have to press to find the ribs, or you can't feel them at all.
- A « barrel-shaped » back, straight, with no waist from above.
- A belly that hangs down, parallel to the ground. Have a word with the vet and cut back gently.
Too thin
- Ribs, vertebrae and pelvis sticking out, no reserve to feel at all.
- A very tucked-in waist.
- If the thinness is recent or unintended, see the vet BEFORE trying to « fill him back up ».
Treats count towards the day
A reward stays an extra, not a meal. Deduct it from the ration, and go light when you're giving them often (training rewards, for instance).
Best choices (low in calories)
In moderation
Never (toxic or dangerous)
Any food is given plain: no salt, no sugar, no sauce, no bones, stones or pips. Introduce just one new food at a time and watch for 24 to 48 hours.
Helping your dog lose weight: slow, measured, supervised
Obesity isn't « a few pounds of happiness »: it's a chronic disease, in which fatty tissue keeps up a low-grade inflammation throughout the body (AAHA 2021). The good news: since losing weight too fast is dangerous (it burns off muscle), the method that works is also the gentlest. Aim for consistency, not speed.
The target amount is worked out from the IDEAL weight you're aiming for, not the current weight: that's a decision for the vet, not a home-made portion.
Set the goal with the vet
They weigh him, note the body condition score and rule out a medical cause before building the plan.
Weigh the ration and count the extras
Uncounted treats are the classic blind spot: deduct them from the meal and go for lighter rewards.
Move more, gradually
More frequent walks that are a little longer, rather than an intense effort straight away; swimming if possible, gentle on the joints. A dog with arthritis or a heart condition has his programme set by the vet.
Weigh him every 2 to 4 weeks
What isn't measured can't be steered. A modest goal each week is safer and more lasting than dramatic weight loss.
- Kealy et al. — Effects of diet restriction on life span (Purina Lifespan Study, Labradors) (2002)
- WSAVA Global Nutrition Committee — Global Nutrition Guidelines and Body Condition Score (1 to 9 scale)
- AAHA — Nutrition and Weight Management Guidelines (2021)
- NRC — Nutrient Requirements of Dogs and Cats (maintenance energy requirement) (2006)
- Glickman et al. — Risk factors for gastric dilatation-volvulus in dogs (2000)
To go further
Frequently asked questions
How much kibble a day for a dog?
There's no universal number: it all depends on weight, activity, neutered status and above all the density of his kibble, which can vary twofold from one brand to another. Take the chart on the packet as a starting point (often generous), weigh the ration to the gram, then adjust to his shape: you should feel the ribs under a thin layer and see a clear waist.
How should I feed my dog?
A quality ration served in two meals, weighed rather than estimated, with clean water always available. Fruit, vegetables and leftovers are only extras and should stay a small part of the day. The right yardstick isn't the bag, it's his body, measured over time.
How do I help my dog lose weight?
Slowly and with the vet, never by force. Set the ideal target weight, weigh the ration, count and deduct the treats, build up activity gradually and weigh him every 2 to 4 weeks. Sudden weight loss is dangerous: aim for consistency, not speed.
How can I tell if my dog is overweight?
Three checks: feel the ribs (at his ideal weight, you feel them without pressing), look from above (the waist should narrow into an hourglass) and in profile (the belly tucks up towards the rear). If you have to press to find the ribs or the back is « barrel-shaped », he's overweight.
How many meals a day for an adult dog?
Two meals rather than one large one: the bowl is smaller, the comfort better, and in large, deep-chested breeds, splitting meals and slowing down eating reduces the risk of gastric torsion. Put the bowl on the floor for most dogs.
My dog put on weight after neutering, is that inevitable?
No. Neutering lowers energy needs by roughly 20 to 30 %, so on the same ration a dog tends to gain weight. All it takes is to adjust the ration from the time of the operation and keep an eye on his shape: anticipated, this weight gain is very easy to avoid.
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