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Teaching your dog to wear a muzzle
Training & behaviourPart of · Training & behaviour

Teaching your dog to wear a muzzle

A muzzle is worth teaching to every dog, not just to biters: the day a paw is broken or an ear is infected, even the gentlest dog may refuse to be handled. Teach it early and gently, like a treat cone the dog dives its nose into all on its own. Allow one to two weeks.

Why teach it to every dog, even the gentlest

The usual instinct is to keep the muzzle for aggressive dogs. That is a myth. It mostly protects in moments when your dog has done nothing wrong: a painful procedure at the vet, a train journey where it is often required, a legal duty for restricted breeds. Taught before it is ever needed, it becomes a neutral object. Discovered in an emergency, strapped onto an already stressed dog, it stays tied to that stress for a long time.

At the vet
  • Even a gentle dog can panic when it is hurting or frightened
  • It avoids heavy sedation for a simple routine procedure
  • The professional works calmly, and faster
On public transport
  • Often compulsory on trains, the underground or buses
  • Prepared in advance, it spares the last-minute stress
Restricted-breed dog
  • Muzzle and lead compulsory in public (French law of 6 January 1999)
  • Taught early, it stays neutral and does not hold back socialisation
Working with a reactive dog
  • It removes the owner's fear, who stops swerving away and shouting
  • It makes the work safer without replacing it

A muzzle is not a punishment, nor an admission that your dog is nasty: it is a piece of safety kit, like a seatbelt. The public reads it wrong; your dog knows nothing of that. What it feels about it depends entirely on the way you introduce it.

Choosing the right model

One single criterion decides almost everything: your dog must be able to pant, drink and catch a treat through the basket. Without that, no positive training is possible, and prolonged wear becomes a welfare problem (a dog needs to pant to regulate its temperature).

Best choices

Rigid plastic basket (such as the Baskerville Ultra)The dog breathes, pants, drinks and takes treats inside it: the go-to model for training.
Soft basketComfortable, with the same benefits; a little less suited to the long muzzles of shepherd-type breeds.

Depending on the muzzle shape

Model for short-nosed dogs (brachycephalic)For a bulldog or a pug: limited protection but the least restrictive and the easiest to accept.

Avoid for long wear or training

Closed nylon muzzleHolds the mouth shut: it blocks panting, so it is only for very short spells.
Metal basketRigid, uncomfortable, and it is impossible to reward through the bars.

A tab lets you add a safety collar loop so the dog cannot pull it off: fit it only once the muzzle is well accepted, never during training.

The step-by-step method, at the dog's pace

Move one criterion forward at a time. At the slightest sign of avoidance (head turning away, backing off, nose licking), go back to the previous step: you ease off, you never push.

Step 1 / 5
  1. Build the desire: it is the dog that goes in, never the muzzle that comes forward.

    • Drop a treat into the bottom of the basket.
    • Hold the muzzle still, opening towards your dog, like a bowl.
    • Let it dive its nose in of its own accord to fetch the treat.
    • Tuck the muzzle behind you before it wants to pull back out.

    Move on when: As soon as the muzzle appears, it tries to get its nose in, 4 times out of 5.

  2. Keep the nose in the basket for longer, nostrils relaxed.

    • Nose inside, give a treat through the basket, then two or three in a row.
    • Gradually space the rewards out.
    • Mark the moment it stays put and relaxed with a calm "yes".

    Move on when: It keeps its nose in for 5 to 10 seconds, without trying to pull back out.

  3. Get it to accept the touch of the straps and the sound of the clip.

    • While it holds the position, pass the straps behind its head, reward, release.
    • Once the touch of the straps is a non-event, clip for one second, reward straight away, unclip.
    • The "click" of the buckle announces a treat, not being shut in.

    Move on when: Clip and unclip with no pulling-back movement at all, several times in a row.

  4. Movement and activity make it forget the object.

    • Lengthen the clipped-on wear, treats first in a row then spaced out.
    • Add familiar exercises: sit, a short recall, a few steps to heel.
    • Let it eat its bowl of food through the basket.

    Move on when: A good minute of calm wear, then a few minutes on the move, without rubbing at the muzzle.

  5. Get it used to wearing the muzzle day to day, without it predicting "muzzle means trouble".

    • Go out muzzled first in a quiet spot, then vary the settings (street, park).
    • Coming back from a walk, keep the muzzle on for 5 to 15 minutes and run two or three exercises.
    • Add the safety collar once the muzzle is well accepted.

    Move on when: It wears the muzzle calmly outdoors, on a walk just as in a care setting.

Muzzle mastered

To go faster still: coat the rims of the basket with pâté, or dip it in chicken stock. Your dog licks, lingers, and links the muzzle with something good. And mark it with a cheerful "yes" the moment it moves towards it on its own.

To go further

  1. AVSABPosition Statement on Humane Dog Training (2021)
  2. Wess et al.Effect of cooperative care training on compliance in dogs undergoing a veterinary examination (pilot study), Applied Animal Behaviour Science (2022)
  3. ZivThe effects of using aversive training methods in dogs: a review, Journal of Veterinary Behavior (2017)

Frequently asked questions

Which dogs should wear a muzzle?

In truth, all of them. Not just aggressive dogs: the day it is in pain at the vet, on a train journey or under a legal duty (restricted breeds), even the gentlest dog may need one. Better to have taught it beforehand, calmly.

How do you put a muzzle on an aggressive dog?

You do not "put" it on by force, especially on a dog that might bite. You teach it to slide its own nose in, treat at the bottom of the basket, in tiny steps. And if the aggression is established, this work is done alongside a trainer or a behaviourist: the muzzle makes things safe, it does not fix the behaviour.

When should you put a muzzle on your dog?

As soon as a situation calls for it (vet, transport, legal duty), but above all not only in those moments. If it only ever appears when there is a problem, your dog links it with danger. Put it on for ten minutes coming back from a walk too, so it stays neutral.

How long does it take to get a dog used to a muzzle?

Allow one to two weeks as a rule, at 2 to 4 mini-sessions a day. But it is your dog that sets the pace: if it has already endured being muzzled by force, it will take longer. Forcing to go faster undoes everything, so you may as well take your time.

My dog is afraid of the muzzle, what should I do?

Go back to the previous step. Most often, you have gone too fast or the muzzle has only come out at bad moments. Make it delicious: pâté on the rims, a treat at the bottom, and let it decide to dive its nose in. Mark it with a cheerful "yes" the moment it moves towards it.

Is a muzzle cruel to a dog?

No, provided it is a basket model where the dog can pant, drink and eat, and provided it is taught gently. What is hard on a dog is living in stress, or being sedated for want of preparation. Used well, it opens up freedoms rather than taking them away.

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