My dog lets go of the object too soon, how can I help?

Go back to a duration they manage easily, even half a second, and praise them while they hold so holding stays pleasant. You're the one who picks the moment to mark and then to swap, not them: that's what gradually stretches the hold.

From what age can you teach a dog to hold an object?

You can lay the groundwork gently from puppyhood, with soft objects and very short sessions. This trick puts no strain on the joints, so there's no special growth precaution beyond the usual rules: always stop before tiredness sets in.

Hold It

Teaching your dog tricksPart of · Teaching your dog tricks

Hold It

Q: How do I teach my dog to hold an object?

You build the duration in tiny steps: mark with a 'yes!' the moment they take the object, then wait half a second before marking, then a full second, and always swap for a treat. A closed, calm mouth is the real goal, not simply having the object in the mouth.

Q: My dog chews the object instead of holding it, what should I do?

Chewing just means you built the duration too fast: it isn't disobedience. Drop back a notch, mark a shorter but calm hold, without saying 'no', and only move up again after several successes in a row.

Q: How do I teach my dog 'hold' and 'give'?

The two are learned together: you add the word 'hold' just before offering the object, and 'give' just before swapping for a treat. Because you trade every time instead of snatching, the 'give' settles in on its own, willing and relaxed.

Q: Which object should I choose to teach my dog to carry?

To start, a fabric roll or a firm-yet-soft toy, clean, the right size for their mouth and without much emotional value. Avoid anything hard, heavy, brittle or too small, and above all their favourite toy, which turns the trick into a possession battle.

10 min read

Holding an object is self-control work

Holding without chewing isn't a bad habit to correct, it's an effort. Your dog has to hold back a very strong urge, the urge to chew anything that lands in his mouth. It's pure self-control, far more mental than physical, and it tires his brain out as much as a long walk tires his legs. So when he chews, drops too soon or holds limply, he isn't disobeying you: he's telling you the duration step was too high. The answer is never "no", it's to drop back down a step.

By swapping the object for a reward every single time, you're also building a willing, relaxed "give" without even training it separately. It's one of the best ways to stop resource guarding, that stiffening or growling when you come near his object, from ever taking hold.

An object that feels comfortable in the mouth invites your dog to hold it; an unpleasant one pushes him to chew it or spit it out: always start with the first group below.

Best to start with

A fabric roll or a firm-yet-soft toyComfortable in the mouth, it invites a calm hold.

A size that suits his mouthNeither too small (swallowing risk) nor too big (it strains the jaw).

A neutral, clean object kept for trainingWith no sentimental value, the "give" stays easy.

Save these for later

Varied textures (soft rubber, rope)Bring these in once the hold is solid, dropping back down a duration step.

Different sizes and shapesThis is what proves the trick is truly learned, not a starting point.

Best avoided

A hard, heavy or brittle objectUncomfortable, it encourages spitting out and chewing.

An object that's too smallHe could swallow it or choke on it.

A favourite toy or a "stolen" objectThe object already has value in his eyes, or a history of chase games: it complicates the exercise for nothing.

Nothing treated, painted or questionable: if it can splinter, cut or be swallowed, it doesn't belong in his mouth.

From a first sniff to a long hold

You raise one difficulty at a time, and what you reward is the closed, calm jaw, not simply having the object in his mouth.

Mark the slightest interest

Sit or crouch facing your dog, hold the object still at mouth height (not on the floor, not above his head), and keep your treats in a pocket or in your free hand. Your first "yes!" rewards the tiniest move towards the object, a sniff, a lick, a brush of the lips: say "yes!" and hand him a treat straight from your hand. At this stage he has nothing in his mouth yet, so there's nothing to swap, you simply reward. If he looks away and loses interest, bring the object closer to his nose and wait. But if he backs off or clearly turns his head away, the object is scaring him: don't push, pick something less imposing and go more slowly. Repeat until he moves towards the object without hesitating.

Mark him taking it in his mouth

Once he goes to the object without hesitating, stop marking mere contact: wait until he properly takes it in his mouth. Then say your marker word ("yes!") and, this time, swap the object for a treat: you offer the reward, he spits the object out to eat it. That's intentional, it's already the beginning of the "give".

0.5 s, then 1 s, then 2 s

Delay your "yes!"

Wait half a second of holding before marking, then one second, then two. The mouth stays closed and calm. Count three calm holds in a row before moving up a step. If he chews, or if the object rolls around in his mouth (it slips, shifts, and your dog readjusts his grip), the step is too high: drop back down, without a word.

over several short, spaced-out sessions

Stretch out the hold

Then build up to three, five, then eight seconds, always with the same rule: three calm holds in a row before each new step. Spread those steps over several short sessions rather than one long one, that's generally what helps learning most. Now and then praise him during the hold, in a soft, calm voice, without moving or touching him, so that holding stays pleasant.

Add the words

Once the hold has become reliable, say "hold" as you present the object, and "give" just before the swap for the treat. Only bring in these two words at this stage, never before he holds reliably.

Vary the objects

With a new object, you drop back down a duration step, then build back up quickly. Choose different textures and sizes, always suited to his mouth.

Keep sessions short: around ten repetitions, a few minutes, no more, once or twice a day. A dog learns better from brief, repeated sessions than from a long one where he ends up saturated. Always stop while he's succeeding, never on a failure.

Going further: carrying while walking

Once the standing hold is solid, you can teach "carry": you take a step back, inviting your dog to follow you, and you mark if he moves forward without letting go of the object. If he drops it to follow you, that's normal, movement is a brand-new difficulty: go back down to a single step. Some dogs hold better on the move than standing still; if that's yours, make the most of it. This trick is also the starting point for longer sequences: tidying his toys away, fetching an object by its name, taking it to someone.

He already carries everything, all by himself

Often the case with a retrieving breed: the hold is almost there already.
Move quickly through the first two steps and focus on duration, then on the "give".

He chews or spits it out too quickly

This isn't stubbornness: your duration step is too high.
Drop back down a step and stay there until three calm successes in a row before building back up.

He never takes anything in his mouth

For him, the real hurdle is daring to touch the object, not holding it.
Stay on the first step, marking the slightest contact, for as long as it takes before moving on to taking it in his mouth.

The traps that stall this trick

Building up duration too fast: chewing sets in and becomes the habit.
Starting with a hard or heavy object: it's uncomfortable and pushes him to spit it out.
Snatching or pulling the object out of his mouth: it destroys the "give" and creates conflict around possession.
Rewarding a limp grip and telling yourself "that's close enough": your dog then learns that a limp grip will do, and he'll never try for better.
Comparing your dog to others: each one moves at his own pace, and if you want a retriever's pace from a dog who isn't one, you pile on pressure and set him up to fail.
Working with a favourite toy or a "stolen" object: you turn the trick into a possession issue.
Forcing his mouth open with your hands, or pinching an ear to make him take the object: this method exists in some training circles, but it stays physical coercion, not willing learning.

Going further

guideTeach your dog to tidy up their toysThe first everyday trick that grows out of this held object: he heads for the basket without dropping it on the way.Read the guide guideTeach your dog the names of objectsOnce the object is held properly, you give it a name: the foundation of your dog's vocabulary.Read the guide guideGo See & FetchThe logical next step: he keeps the object in his mouth all the way to the right person.Read the guide guide“Touch”: teaching your dog to boop your handTouching an object with the tip of the nose often paves the way for holding it: the nose touches before the mouth takes hold.Read the guide guideThe foundations: teaching a trick with rewardsThe basics of reward-based training, useful for teaching the hold without ever forcing.Read the guide guideChaining tricks together: back-chainingTo turn this single trick into a smooth little sequence, starting from the last step and working back to the first.Read the guide

Frequently asked questions

How do I teach my dog to hold an object?

You start by marking the slightest interest in the object, a sniff is enough, then you mark him taking it in his mouth, and you build the hold up in tiny steps: half a second, then one second, counting three calm holds in a row before each new step, and always swapping for a treat. A closed, calm jaw is the goal, not simply having the object in his mouth.

My dog chews the object instead of holding it, what should I do?

Chewing simply means you've built up duration too fast, it isn't disobedience. Drop back down a step, mark a shorter but calm hold, without saying "no", and only build back up after three successes in a row.

My dog drops the object too quickly, how can I help him?

Go back to a duration he manages easily, even half a second, and praise him in a soft voice while he holds so that holding stays pleasant. You are the one who chooses the moment for the "yes!" and then the swap, not him: that's what gradually stretches out the hold.

How do I teach my dog "hold" and "give"?

The two are learned together: you add the word "hold" just before presenting the object, and "give" just before swapping for a treat. Because you swap every time instead of snatching, the "give" settles in all by itself, willing and relaxed.

From what age can a dog learn to hold an object?

You can start as early as puppyhood, without forcing, with soft objects and very short sessions. This trick puts no strain on any joint, so it needs no special precautions linked to growth: simply stop before he gets tired, as with any exercise with a puppy.

Which object should I choose to teach my dog to carry?

To begin with, a fabric roll or a firm-yet-soft toy, clean, the right size for his mouth, and with no strong sentimental value for him. Avoid anything hard, heavy, brittle or too small, and above all his favourite toy: it adds an attachment that complicates the exercise.

Updated on July 11, 2026

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